You’ve almost certainly admired her work without ever knowing her name. Behind the outfits worn by some of Hollywood’s biggest stars stands Edith Head, a costume designer whose creations have left their mark on generations of moviegoers. Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly — all of them wore costumes associated with this major figure of American cinema.
A résumé that boggles the mind
Her career is dizzying. The Guinness Book of Records credits her with the costumes of 432 Hollywood productions, plus another 111 credits as costume designer or assistant early in her career. An immense body of work, rewarded with eight Oscars out of 35 nominations. That record still stands: Edith Head remains the most awarded woman in Oscar history.
The white dress that made Elizabeth Taylor a fashion icon
Among the images most closely tied to her name, Elizabeth Taylor in A Place in the Sun holds a special place. In the 1951 film, the actress appears in a strapless white dress that became one of Edith Head’s most famous creations. Her work on the film earned her an Oscar the following year.
The frenzy quickly spread beyond the movie theaters. Manufacturers copied the silhouette for their evening gowns, and young American women adopted it for their prom dresses. An exhibition at the University of California, Irvine even features a copy of the outfit worn to one of those proms. Cinema costume had become a model people wanted to wear in real life.
This influence aligned perfectly with Edith Head’s philosophy of her craft: to showcase the performers and support their characters. She summed up that ambition in a famous line: “My credo is to make the audience notice the actors, not the clothes.”
Eight statuettes and an exceptional career
Before that iconic dress, Edith Head had already won her first statuette in 1950 for The Heiress, starring Olivia de Havilland and Montgomery Clift. In 1951, she pulled off a double win thanks to Samson and Delilah and All About Eve. At the time, costumes were rewarded in two separate categories, depending on whether the film was in color or black and white.
After A Place in the Sun, four more victories enriched her record: Roman Holiday in 1954, Sabrina in 1955 with Audrey Hepburn, The Facts of Life in 1961, and The Sting in 1974. These dates correspond to the ceremonies, held after the films’ releases.
Her expertise was also sought for the ceremony itself. As the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences recalls, she became the event’s fashion advisor in the 1950s. She helped guests choose outfits suited to the constraints of the television broadcast.
A pioneer at the heart of the major studios
This recognition crowned a rise that began in the era of silent film. She joined Paramount in 1924 as a sketch artist, learned the trade from the heads of the costume department, and took charge of it in 1938. She thus became the first woman to hold that position at a major Hollywood studio.
After more than forty years at Paramount, she moved to Universal in 1967. Her career was notably intertwined with Alfred Hitchcock’s, with whom she worked several times, including on Vertigo. From the dawn of talking pictures to the productions of the 1970s, she accompanied Hollywood through its transformations.
A family resemblance to Edna Mode
Edith Head also had an instantly recognizable look: bangs, large glasses, and a deliberately understated wardrobe. The woman who dreamed up so many outfits for others personally favored four colors: black, white, beige, and brown, according to the Academy.
It’s hard not to think of Edna Mode, the superhero costume designer from The Incredibles. The comparison comes with a nuance, though: in an interview with Blackfilm, Brad Bird acknowledged having studied Edith Head while citing several other influences, including Patricia Highsmith and Linda Hunt. Edna is therefore a blend of different inspirations.
A legacy that’s still visible today
Edith Head passed away in 1981 at the age of 83, still working until the end of her life. Her creations remain visible every time we rediscover the films she contributed to — a fitting way to find, behind the stars, the woman who did so much for their look.
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